However, if the drain on the charging system by the auxiliary or main battery bank reduces the system voltage below a certain point, it will disconnect the battery banks from each other, protecting them from excessive drain. If the Relay-based Isolator determines that there’s not enough voltage in the primary source to perform an essential function, such as starting an engine, it will open the solenoid and allow current to flow from the auxiliary battery to make up the difference. When the engine starter is engaged, the Relay-based Isolator compares the voltage in both main and auxiliary batteries. Relay-based Isolator is best seen as switch that can direct current, enabling primary and auxiliary bank of batteries to be charged from a single source, using a solenoid. The higher the current, the bigger the voltage drop and the lower the efficiency of charging the dual battery. This isolator can handle 120 amps continously, which is a lot! If your alternators deliver more you should upgrade, bigger ones are available.A Relay-based Isolator have no apparent voltage drop while for Diode-based Isolator there will be minimally 0.7V – 1.5V drop across the diode depending on the amount of current pass through. Test the isolator and if it works keep it- it's not a cheap unit. Mount the isolator in an upright position onto a metal to ensure proper heat transfer. You should use some additional cable protection around the terminals to protect the cable against chafing. Just some hints, seen from an electronical side. The problem is: if one of these built-in devices fails: And to be honest just throwing a diode isolator and a B2B charger into one housing is clever marketing. That's a bit on the low side for your application. **If using a digital ohmmeter, a diode scale MUST be usedįor more installation information use this link: īy the way- charge current of the C-tek is limited to 20A. *On some import ohmmeters, the red and black probes are reversed for these tests. Colored terminal indicates "E" post on group 2 isolators and "R" terminal on most group 3 isolators. A good isolator will show no current flow.ĥ. Isolators, the "R" terminal for group 3 isolators). ![]() With the other probe, terminals "A", #1, #2 (the "E" terminal for 3A Hold one probe on the aluminum heat sink, being sure there is contact by scratching through the protective coating. A good isolator will allow no current flow from "A" to #1, #2 or "R" and will show current flow from "E" to "A".Ĥ. Next, hold the Black* probe on the "A" and with the Red* probe touch terminal #1 and #2 (terminal "E" and "R", if used). Isolators (group 2), and the "R" terminal for (group 3) isolators.Ī good isolator will show a current flow from "A" to #1, #2 and "R", and no current flow to "E".ģ. Using a needle movement ohmmeter RX-1 scale or a digital ohmmeterĭiode scale, hold the Red* probe on the terminal "A" and with the Black* probe touch terminal #1 and #2, and the "E" terminal for 3A Here is the Original Sure Power testing procedure:Ģ. In Ford applications there is a fuse inline installed between isolator and regulator! Check this! Maybe the regulator must be replaced? It should be connected with the regulator of the alternator. ![]() This one is responsible for the correct output voltage. Since it is all solid state it is very unlikely that the isolator has problems.Įspecially the "E" input. If you want four pages of detailed explanation of why you don't want a diode or alternator controller based system, read this: ībasso, you got a pretty nice and decent model there. My rig has not been plugged into shore power for weeks. I routinely see charge rates of over 150A at idle and, with any sunlight at all, my 600Ah batteries are normally at 100% every night. I have a Blue Sky but others prefer Morning Star. Install the solar controller of your choice. Doing it again, I would simply use a Blue Sea 7620. I installed a Magnum Smart Battery Combiner and a Blue Sea Solenoid because I wanted a high voltage cut out. (I used the latter as I have two starter batteries.) This should be adequate for up to 250A of alternator, at least. ![]() Upgrade and fuse my cables between the starter battery(s) and the camper battery(s) to 2/0 or a pair of 1/0. If your van runs at 14-14.2v, then neither the CTEK nor the Sterling will do you any good.
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